If you’ve lived in Pune all your life, chances are you’ve crossed Kaka Halwai in Tulshibaug hundreds of times. But did you know that right next to it, hidden inside an old wada on the first floor, is one of Pune’s oldest biryani joints?
Welcome to Durga Bhuvan.
Established in 1956, this place has been serving biryani since a time when very few restaurants in Pune even knew what biryani was. Finding it is a little adventure in itself. Walk into the wada, climb a flight of stairs and suddenly you’ll feel like you’ve travelled back several decades.
And then comes the biggest surprise…
Their kitchen doesn’t use LPG. Everything is still cooked on coal.
That single detail completely changes the flavour of their Mutton Dum Biryani.
Smoky in the Best Possible Way
The first thing you’ll notice isn’t the mutton. It’s the aroma of the rice.
Every grain has a gentle smoky flavour from the coal fire. The rice is beautifully fragrant with whole spices, fluffy, light and perfectly separated. It doesn’t feel oily or heavy despite being a dum biryani.
Rice Verdict: 10/10
Easily one of the best rice preparations we’ve had in this series.
The Mutton Is the Real Hero
The mutton is cooked the old-fashioned way—slowly in dum over coal. Some pieces literally melt in your mouth while a few have beautifully caramelised edges that add even more flavour. There isn’t a thick layer of masala coating everything, but don’t mistake that for a lack of flavour.
This biryani reminds you of traditional Mughal-style Dum Pukht cooking, where patience matters more than spices.
Meat & Masala Verdict: 10/10
Simple. Rich. Absolutely unforgettable.
The Surprise Hero? The Rassa.
The mutton quantity is generous, but because the rice portion is huge, it falls just a little short.
Meat to Rice Ratio: 8/10
Thankfully, Durga Bhuvan serves an outstanding rassa.
In fact, this was probably the first time during our Ek Plate Biryani journey that we actually ordered chapatis with biryani! Yes… the rassa is that good. Pour it over the remaining rice and suddenly you don’t miss the extra pieces of mutton anymore.
Final Verdict
There are fancier biryani places in Pune. There are places with better interiors and trendier presentations. But very few can offer 70 years of history, a coal-fired kitchen, and a biryani that still tastes like it’s made with patience rather than shortcuts.
If you love old Pune and authentic dum biryani, Durga Bhuvan isn’t just another restaurant. It’s a piece of Pune’s food history that deserves to be experienced.
