KOLKATA BIRYANI IN PUNE
After exploring Hyderabadi, Thalassery and traditional dum biryanis, Episode 5 of Ek Plate Biryani took me to a completely different style of biryani— Kolkata Biryani.
My destination is Bengali Sweets & Foods in Viman Nagar, a 20 year old restaurant that has been serving authentic Bengali cuisine. Run by a Bengali couple, the restaurant enjoys an almost legendary status among Pune’s Bengali community. On weekends, regulars throng the place, and the massive biryani vessel is cooked nearly four times a day. That’s almost serving close to 1,000 plates every weekend. That’s a remarkable number for a dish that remains relatively niche in Pune.
The Fascinating Story Behind Kolkata Biryani
What makes Kolkata Biryani unique is not just its flavour but its history. During a period of financial constraints in Bengal’s royal kitchens, cooks were forced to reduce the quantity of meat used in biryanis. To compensate, they began adding potatoes and eggs to the biryani. What started as a necessity eventually became a star feature of Kolkata Biryani.
Today, the potato is not merely an accompaniment. It is often considered the star of the plate. The potatoes absorb the maximum flavour during the dum cooking process, becoming rich and fragrant.
Delicate Flavours, Not Fiery Spices
Unlike other biryanis that rely on bold masalas and intense heat, Kolkata Biryani is all about subtlety. The chicken is first deep-fried before being layered with rice and cooked in dum. This creates a different texture and flavour profile that sets it apart from other regional styles.
Generous use of desi ghee gives the rice its rich aroma. The flavours remain delicate, fragrant and elegant throughout.
Rice Verdict: 10/10
The rice is exceptionally fluffy and aromatic. Every grain has the fragrance of ghee and minimal spices without becoming heavy.
Meat & Masala Verdict: 9/10
Minimal spices allow the quality of the chicken and the cooking technique to shine. The fried chicken develops a unique texture that works beautifully with the fragrant rice.
Understanding the Meat-to-Rice Ratio of Kolkata Biryani
Those used to meat-heavy biryanis may initially feel the chicken quantity is less compared to the rice. But that is precisely the story of Kolkata Biryani. The potatoes and eggs are not fillers; they are essential characters in the dish’s history and identity.
Meat : Rice Ratio Verdict: 7/10
Once you understand the tradition behind it, you’ll find yourself appreciating every bite of the potato and egg as much as the chicken.
Final Verdict
Bengali Sweets & Foods is the place for Pune’s most authentic Kolkata Biryani experience. Rich in history and delicate in flavour, it proves that great biryani doesn’t always need heavy spices to make an impression.
